![]() Next, they’ll inspect your MAF sensor to see if it’s damaged or dirty.First, your mechanic will use a scan tool to check if you have another active trouble code like misfire codes or O2 sensor codes.off or Running.Here’s how a professional mechanic will diagnose error code P0102 to determine the root cause of the problem: What bugs me is that the Ground(MAF) to ACTUAL Ground seems to be EXACTLY 25 ohms, and stays there no matter if Pwr. Is it Time for A Bold Experiment in Electricity(?!) What could *Possibly Go Wrong* if I Truly Ground the B/W MAF Wire? The Car could be Magically fixed(Wishful Thinking), OR, perhaps.Smoke, Sparks, sizzling components underhood and elsewhere!-Even Fire(!) and time for a new car? I'd love to get a solid opinion before doing what *seems* obvious. So I'm just wondering-would any harm be done by connecting a direct chassis Ground to the the MAF Blk/Wht Ground wire? Or is an '01 supposed to have 25 ohms on that particular length of wire? to chassis or BAT Ground is 1.2-1.6 ohms.The Schematic makes a cryptic reference to "Ground Distribution Schematics in Wiring Systems" Within the boundary of the underhood fuse block-(dotted line implying fuse box). reads 12.24v key on and 15v+ running.So, is there a reason why the MAF Harness ground to Chassis ACTUAL or BAT should be at 25 ohms? My 2000 parts gtp is still intact enough to test, and it's MAF GND. The Yellow (nominal 5v) reads 4.998v to 5.02v and the Pink (ign. (blk/wht) has a 25 ohm resistance to ACTUAL chassis or battery ground. Ok, the only wierd thing I can find is that the GND. ![]() Hope to post a "Good" answer soon! Regards, Mike It was *EVER* So Slightly Lumpy, but when I opened up the insulation, There was NO Copper Wire!!! Just Light Green Dirt in it's place! Apparently the wire sagged a bit, held enough moisture, and magically that "Cu2O, CuO, or Cu2O3"-whichever it was, made an adequate connection 99.7% of the time! So maybe this is what I'm hunting for.Apologies for the lengthy rambling diatribe. wire (12v) that ran inside a plastic channel just above the carb at the back edge of the hood opening from one side to the other. Anyway, it finally turned out to be an ign. *Totally* not in the same realm,(But Maybe) -As a "True" kid of the 70's, I had a 63 Econoline Van (sofa in the Back and all!), and it would sometimes die after a right turn-Then start right up! Never figured that out-Moved on to an 80's Econoline-And soon had a very similar thing-only now it was frying the Duraspark reluctor pickup in the distributor with annoying regularity. And yes It has an oiled cone filter-I actually have a "spare" Unoiled K&N-Put that on just for a test with all 3 MAF's, and same result. cables for corrosion/lack of grease, then isolate as much of the MAF harness as possible and check for varying continuity under flex, etc.īut if anyone has any New ideas or answers that I don't know, I'td be great to hear. ![]() connects, Exhaust Not clogged("testpiped") and all the other bits of wisdom posted in the last 8 or so years regarding P0102.TBC-I hope! I'm going to start with going over the fuse box and Alt/Batt. And I've done the MAF cleaner ad Nauseum, greased all elec. ![]() Anyway, given the low amount of success others have posted, I will keep trying to track this down, and if it IS a wiring issue, get some definitive info/pictures of what and where the problem lies. Voltage? Sometimes I feel like just Driving the "F-Bomb" (01 F-150 that is!). So everything points to wiring/lowfrequency/voltage, But yet I can't catch it in the act displaying a bad ground/signal voltage/or ign. Well, I did my Due Diligence-read all the "P0102 Posts" and mine seems to fit the bill-stuttering, runs fine for a bit after clearing the code, runs fine "MAF unplugged", Already swaped 2 "Known good" MAF's from other cars-they Throw the code ONLY on this one, and No Codes on any of the other MAF's-including mine-on the other cars.And swapped out the PCM (Have the original as well as an "Intense" tuned mild PCM). ![]()
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